You will have to mark handles of various dippers with masking tape tab and weight specific for the powder it is made to dip.ĭon't guess or trust your memory. You could fill with glue gun 3/4 way and when it hardens, put in weighed charge and mark case level, dump powder and either add more glue, or file case and chamfer till it dips the correct charge. After adding a handle, it worked better for me. 22 long case and stuffed it with paper wadding tamped until the remaining space would only hold a grain of bullseye. 25 acp loads of bullseye, was only a 1/4 inch long, and after soldering a small finishing nail to the case, was unhandy and too delicate for my taste. 22 case cut off to make a one grain dipper for dipping. Of course you need a powder scale to weigh the charges to make the dippers. are aluminum and make neat dippers of all weights as do the larger cases as well.Īlso, instead of trimming the cases to make weight, you can wad up small bits of paper and wad it into the cases, tamping it solid and filling the case to make your dipper until you only have romm left for the weighed powder charge. If you can't solder them, then just squeeze a straightened paper clip around the extractor groove-after first cutting the case to length. 25 berdan primed pistol cases to make dippers too. Then poke the case and cut off piece out of the hole.I have used old shot. Mark the place for the case cut on the end of the block, holding the case up to the wood.Then insert the case into the hole and using a hack saw, saw thru the mark into the wood and thru the case. Then clamp the scrap in a vise, or C-clamp it to a table top with the hole facing down. Easy way to cut cases is to drill a hole the case size near the end of a small scrap of wood, two by four, etc. Then I mark for the cut on the case outside.
When I want to cut a case to use for a dipper, I weigh the charge and dump it into the case. 22 short case, just cut a long rifle case. After a little practice, you can trickle a tiny granule at a time or more as needed.Īs for as it being difficult to find a. If you don't have a powder trickler, use a teaspoon and gently shake into your weighing pan. Hate to think about but it has been nearly 40 years since I hand loaded the 32's. Most likely just lost interest or gave up in frustration. I started a project of filling a tiny Lee spoon with epoxy but never finished for a reason I can't recall. The scale's arm wouldn't move at all until the desired charge was way over. At the time I had two scales, a Redding and a Pacific. I can recall the frustration as the light charge more often than not by the time my scale's arm lifted the pointer was over center. For the extremely light charges have to make sure there are not any breezes, be it an open window, fan, A/C etc affecting the movement of your scale. It was chambered for the 32 Long so I wasn't to concerned if I loaded the Short brass a bit to much. The 32's I didn't shoot in my Nagant I shot in a F&W revolver, not a typo a "F". I think it was from a member of my gun collector's club that also sold me the partial can of Norma and some 32 store-bought cast bullets. Can't recall for sure where I got the loading data. I can't say with 100% certainty but I think I was using Unique and also used a Norma brand powder. I'd trickle it up rubbing my thumb and finger dropping the flakes that stick then use the powder trickler. If I dropped to much into the pan, dump it start over, under I'd trickle it up. I would drop a pinch, a pinch being powder from a bowl pinched between my thumb and index finger. It was a bit slow and tedious getting the powder charge right.
Loading for it won't be a problem, I have what I need except for some way to throw those tiny charges.Been a long time, more years than I want to think about. Looks like it'll be a fun little toy when I get to it. Looking at it, it may not be as old as I thought either as it has some kind of transfer bar in it, the hammer won't push the firing pin where it would hit the primer unless the trigger is pulled all the way back.įor the price, I'm not out much, but I don't want to blow it up. What kind of loads would work in this OK? I'm guessing about 1.5 grain of Bullseye? I understand top breaks are inherently weaker, but this one is as strong as it ever was I'm sure. 32 short brass stashed away someplace in all my stuff and also a mold for a light bullet designed for the. Happenned on a pretty nice blued one today with no pitting, good grips and bore for $75. Usually shops want upwards of $200 for ones that have broken grips, pitting, nickel plating peeling etc. 32s and have been eyeballing these when they turn up. I must admit to having a thing for top break revolvers and never had one.
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